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Glad the video was of some help. And thanks for letting me know. 👍

Glad it helped. Measuring, like any skill, takes time and practice. And in this particular case, time & patience wins the day. It took me an hour and many rechecks but dang, the truck sure drives super straight now. Totally worth it and I know it's been done precisely.

You're welcome, glad the video helped.

Sorry to hear you're having trouble. First things first and in case you don't have a paper copy, here's a link to an online PDF version of the manual for the 636: www.manualslib.com/manual/1051543/Singer-Touch-And-Sew-636.html I highly recommend that you download & save the manual to a computer hard drive for later reference & offline access: www.manualslib.com/download/1051543/Singer-Touch-And-Sew-636.html The first thing I'd check is the bobbin adjustment. Video on this here: ruclips.net/video/Z4ruDbTuVTY/видео.html The correct spec on the adjustment is 1/32 of an inch of play, just enough of a gap for the bobbin thread to pass through. If the gap is too big it can cause snarling of the bobbin thread like you described. Once adjusted be sure the set screw is tightened but do not over-tighten it, just run the set screw in until it stops. Short list of other causes of bobbin thread snarling: Worn or damaged Bobbin - replace with a new bobbin. Bobbin case dirty - clean out the bobbin case with a small brush, remove any lint, dirt or other foreign debris. Bobbin case dry (unlubricated) - see manual for bobbin case oiling points, one drop of oil per location shown. Needle not fully seated in Needle Bar - Loosen needle set screw & be sure needle is pushed all the way up into the needle bar, then re-tighten needle set screw. Incorrect, damaged or dull needle - replace with correct needle or new needle, as needed. Poor quality thread or old thread - either can cause snarling, use a newer, quality thread. Machine threaded incorrectly - see manual for correct threading procedure. The following issues are more rare but I include them here just to be as complete as possible. Bobbin Case Hook not catching top thread - this would be a timing issue. Most commonly it can be caused by a worn/stretched drive belt. If the drive belt isn't stretched, it is more rarely caused by worn bobbin drive gears in the bottom of the machine (Singer used partial plastic gears on these machines so that they run quiet) but with a lot of use the gears can wear enough to throw off the timing. It's also possible that a set screw on one or more of the gears has come loose but this is rather rare. I think that will give you some good starting points to get this fixed. Don't be intimidated by all of this. These machine are very well made and a majority of the time it's something simple like cleaning, oiling or a small adjustment. Let me know how it goes.

Then your chain is either dull or worn out. Fix it.

Glad the video was of some help. The 20R in the '78 Celica is the same as in the pickup, so you are correct, the components are the same. If I can help with any questions feel free to ask. My only request of you on that would be to be as detailed as possible, so I can give more accurate & complete answers.

Seeming like it kicks harder & louder is perception. As long as you have this kit & it's wiring installed correctly, the compressor motor will work less hard. The only verifiable/factual way to prove it is working is to measure the inrush amps on start-up with a meter that can measure inrush amps(note1). Here's a video that shows the before & after results: ruclips.net/video/O7ZPgthApyM/видео.html Running the math on the results shown, there's an average 40% reduction in inrush amps, which is right about where it should be for this kit. Note 1 - You don't need a specialty A/C service meter to measure inrush amps, it can be done with a typical amp meter. The only difference is that with a typical meter, it won't "capture" & display the inrush amps continuously like a specialty meter will. With a typical amp meter, you just have to watch it carefully to catch the peak amps shown on compressor motor start-up.

@@The13thSword i just concern worry a bit, thanks

@@Darton-ok5xt No problem. Since you double checked the wiring I'm fairly sure you got it right.

Thought I previously said something about this, but you're right to double check on it, no problem. The resistor is just a "pass-through" device and has no polarity to it. It doesn't matter which side is used for "in" or "out", it will work the same either way. Direct answer is, it is non-directional. BTW the "1.3" stamp on the terminal means the resistor has a 1.3 Ohms resistance rating, which is correct for the application. Resulting voltage to the ignition coil should be right at 9.5 volts. Perfect.

See previous response about the 3rd green plug. And yes you are correct, on my '78, that one runs to the old emissions control "computer" box mounted to the driver's side kickpanel in the cab. I have also unplugged the "computer" connecter from the box, as it's no longer needed once the vehicle has been "desmogged".

@@The13thSword Thx. I'll have to take another look at the kickpanel area next time we're at the camper. I remember seeing 2 black boxes mounted there... both with wiring harnesses. Now that you say that yours was an emission box, I'll see if I can trace the wires for each of the boxes. It's quite possible the camper has an emissions box AND a cruise control box mounted on the kickpanel. I'll let you know what I find out. We should be seeing the camper again within the next few days.

The ballast resistor used with the UC12 coil does not need to be electrically grounded. It is a "pass through" device, meaning electrical power goes "in" through one terminal and goes "out" through the other terminal. I have mine mounted with a screw just to keep it securely in place. You can certainly secure the resistor with zip ties if it's convenient for you to do so. Just make sure that the terminals & connectors on them don't touch any metal objects or body panels underhood. Going with the UC12 or UC12X Blue Streak is fine as long as you have that ballast resistor in series with the power feed to the coil positive (+). Power passes thru the resistor, lowering the voltage to about 9.5-10 volts, then the power goes to the coil. Either the UC12 or UC12X is designed to run on that voltage and stay reasonably cooler so it doesn't get "cooked" like it would on full battery voltage (13.8 volts average.) Spark power at the spark plugs should be more than ample.

​@@The13thSword Thx for the advice. The mechanic here has very limited time to work on the camper, so in the interest of time, we're going to use the can coil for now and most likely upgrade it to the brick style later after we get back home. I watched your video that explains the can vs the brick and I like the idea that a brick runs cooler. I should be able to do the modification when we get back home.... Hence the need to zip tie the resistor for now and not make any extra holes to attract rust. I'll be sure to secure it so the terminals don't touch metal.. as you suggested.

1. If you mean the black box on the inside fender wall, that should be the voltage regulator. I ran my ground for the ignition module to one of the mounting bolts for it, to use the body ground. The module doesn't have to be specifically grounded to that specific point. It just has to be be grounded to a clean, solid ground point, which can be anywhere on the engine, frame or body. I just grounded it there for convenience & to keep the wiring tidy Word of warning & advice: There is a cable attached from the back of the cylinder head to the firewall, This is the engine-to-body ground cable. Have your mechanic check that cable for any resistance above 0.1 ohm; if above that, replace that ground cable. That cable is what provide a good ground to the body so if you have extra resistance on that cable, the body ground may not be good enough to use to ground the module. Ground cables as they age can develop higher than spec resistance. If it's original, it would be wise to go ahead & replace it with a new cable. How can you tell if it's original? Toyota factory ground cables for 1972 to 1980 are black with a yellow stripe. Otherwise, it just has to be measured end to end with an Ohm Meter to see if it's still in spec or not. Spec should be 0.0 to 0.1 Ohm. Don't forget to check & clean the terminals & clean any metal contact areas. 2. Near as I can tell from research, that part number is an ignition module for a 1989 Isuzu Trooper 2. From what I can tell by pictures, it looks just like a 7-pin version of a GM HEI module, which doesn't surprise me a bit. GM & Isuzu has a working partnership in the 80s & 90s & parts sharing was common. And no, I don't recommend using that part on your application. You only need the common 4 pin type. Reading further it sounds like at some time in the past, someone else rigged up a stock ignition module bypass system using the Isuzu module. If true, the wire colors may be of no help, as a lot of people just use whatever wire they have on hand to get things working. Basic wiring for the LX301 Module (standard 4 pin HEI module) - Mounting hole with "tab" on top (nearest side to the "B' & "C" terminals) - Ground wire to body/frame/engine/battery/your choice of location for a good & solid negative ground. "B" terminal - full system/battery voltage (*) "C" terminal - to Ignition Coil negative (-) terminal. "G" terminal - red or pink wire (may present as either color) from distributor pickup coil "W" terminal - White wire from distributor pickup coil. Of course, the ignition coil positive (+) gets connected to a power source from the ignition switch. On my '78 there is a double terminal green connector coming from the harness right on top of the driver's side wheelwell. The two wires from the harness going into the green plug are Red with Black stripe. Both of these terminals are "hot" with the ignition switch in either the "RUN" or "START" position. I tapped off one of these terminals to power the ignition coil, and tapped off the other one to power the ignition module. Further note - use an Ohm meter (or have someone do this) to check the resistance of the distributor pickup coil. Spec should be 130 to 180 ohms. I doubt it's an issue by it never hurts to double check.

​​@@The13thSword Thanks for the detailed info. I've been suspecting all along that we might have a grounding issue. I super appreciate the details on how to test it. 🤩 I'll either check it myself (next time we get a ride to the camper) or ask the mechanic if he has time. Re #2... I did some looking online too for that part too and couldn't find anything... at least under Toyota. I just edited and uploaded a video for you here on my personal RUclips channel that shows in more detail about the ECS unit and what it's hooked up to... and some footage of our fire too. The more I look at it, the more I'm convinced the mystery ECS box is part of a cruise control system.... maybe🤔. It doesn't make sense to me that someone would install 2 ignition control modules... but then again there is some weird wiring on the camper that someone else did before my mom bought it in 2017. ...Dawne

​@@The13thSword How do I wire in the ECS box to the Standard LX301 ignition control module? I made a video showing the ECS box wiring and uploaded it to my personal channel. I tried enclosing a link to it in a previous comment , but I think it got deleted. 🤔 RUclips apparently restricts video links in comments. 😕 If you click on my galaxy-looking profile picture on this comment, it will bring you to my profile. Just select the Video tab. It's the only video listed there. The ending has some footage of our adventure too.❤ ...Dawne

@@dawneandjohn I had a look at the video, thanks for posting it. I'm just glad that the fire wasn't worse & that no one got hurt. wowsers. Many thoughts here. Explanation on the huge "back-fire" in the muffler. The muffler exploding is extreme but does tell me something. Most vehicle exhaust "back-firing" is usually caused by unburned fuel vapor collecting inside the muffler, which then gets ignited either through a very hot surface (less common), or very hot exhaust gases (product of fuel/air mixture actually being burned). Intermittent spark can easily cause this to happen. So if the ignition coil or module have been "cutting out" here and there, that means unburned fuel/air. Then when it does spark, the super hot actually burned air/fuel acts like a spark plug in the muffler & explodes all that unburned air/fuel. This is basically what happens in your engines' cylinders but in a much more controlled manner. I always suspect higher resistance grounding cables in older vehicles. The copper inside just gets fatigued over time & use. You can check them for yourself if you can get your hands on a volt/ohm meter & I'd be happy to provide instructions on that if needed. Harbor Freight has a usable meter for about $7. Given the wiring layout I see in your vid I agree with you, that other "module" controls the cruise control. Not to get too far off the point but it is literally a switching unit, much like an ignition control module, & it could be used for both, theoretically. Good call on identifying the cruise control diaphragm. .👍 Hmmm. I'm getting a thought here. You seemed to indicate that the cruise control didn't/doesn't work too well. Looking at your vid and tracing the "hot" power side from back to front (opposite of how you traced it in the vid) here's what I see. There are two red wires in the harness that have been tapped into for power, one red, one yellow. The yellow from the cruise control module seems to be the power feed for the ignition coil(?) I'm wondering if that cruise control module might be a problem. If it's acting like am intermittent malfunctioning switch, it might/could affect the power getting to the ignition module, or the ignition coil, or both. If the cruise control doesn't work I'd disconnect it from the circuit entirely & see what happens. That yellow wire going to the cruise control module seems to be terminated with a plug, so it might be easy enough to just unplug it & take it out of the circuit entirely to prevent any possible interference with the ignition circuits' functioning. RE weird wiring. You never can tell what some previous owner, with or without knowledge or skills, did with wiring on a vehicle. And especially with camper models which have a bunch of added on electrical items. Par for the course. Good thing here is that before this ignition problem popped up, everything was working, so hopefully you shouldn't have to many other problems to deal with once you get it running again.

@@dawneandjohn I wouldn't, since that "ECS" box could be suspect. Also, it's not good practice to have more than one powered device in a series circuit. A series circuit has a single power source, but several devices, and the power has to pass thru the 1st device to get to the second device, etc. If a device "upstream" in the circuit malfunctions or fails, it will affect every other device "downstream". Think of the electrical flow as a literal stream of water. If that "ECS" box is the first item in that stream, but is malfunctioning it creates a dam in that electrical "stream". Other device(s) downstream won't get that electrical "water" & won't function properly If the "dam prevent any water from flowing at all, those devices downstream simply won't function at all. This is what I meant in my previous reply about that "ECS" box possibly interfering with the ignition coil or module. For a visual example of a series circuit look here: c03.apogee.net/mvc/home/hes/land/el?utilityname=citizenselectric&spc=foe&id=4707 As you can see, if the first powered light bulb malfunctions, it will affect the bulbs "down the line'. The power has to pass thru the first bulb to reach the next one. If the first bulb is your cruise control module and it's intermittently switching on & off (malfunctioning), then the power going "downstream" to the ignition circuit is intermittently switching on & off. Not good. From what I can see in your vid, the "ECS" box is wired in series for power with the ignition components, with the ignition components being "downstream". I don't know who added the cruise control items but they did it the wrong way. If you want to keep the cruise control items powered but not have any possible interference there is a (correct) way to do it, and that's a branch circuit. You can "branch off" the single power feed from the ignition switch (red wires in harness that those red & yellow wires are spliced into). That way each powered item will have it's own separate power feed, and if any "upstream" device malfunctions or fails, it won't effect the power feed to any other items. I don't mean to get so technical on this stuff, but I do want to explain how all of this works so at least you can have a grasp on how it all works, or doesn't work, as the case may be.

I have considered it but life seems to get in the way, as usual. It's on my agenda but I have no completion date yet.

From my research and as near as I can tell, yes you could use the Standard UF12 coil or similar other brand, as long as it's a quality coil. Avoid any of the "cheapies" out there, they will only give you headaches & possibly strand you on the road. Alternate brands/part numbers: NGK - 48784, WVE/Wells - 5C1291. Also, any quality ignition coil of the later "brick style" intended for the 22R carbureted version of the engine (NOT EFI), up to model year 1990, will work with the HEI module. You are correct, the later "brick style" coils do not require an external resistor. I highly recommend using the heat sink for the HEI module regardless of the coil used. The module has several power transistors in it that generate heat that need to be "channeled away" by a heat sink, so that the module doesn't get "cooked'. As far as the engine struggling uphill, what kind of transmission do you have in that camper? Auto? 4 Speed? I know a lot of the "dually" Toyota campers ('75 & up) came with either of those 2 transmissions and while they are OK for general traveling, they aren't too stellar of climbing hills or highway driving especially. The "standard" solution to this was replacing the Auto or 4 speed manual with the 5 speed manual, usually the W50 or W56 trans. While this won't help much with hill climbing, as they have the same 1st thru 4th gear ratios as the 4 speed manual trans, they do have an overdrive 5th gear that make highway driving better.

Thanks for the info. 😊 It's my mom's camper. She says it's got 3-speeds with overdrive... so is that considered 4 speed? She had the trans rebuilt about 2017. As far as we know, it's the original. Regarding the ignition coil/module: I spent most of yesterday watching your VERY HELPFUL videos (and some others on RUclips too) to learn about the ignition module upgrade. Sooo thankful you took the time to post these videos!! ❤ We're currently temporarily stranded in Kentucky and our camper is having backfiring/stalling/chugging issues. The local mechanic replaced the coil with the Standard Igntion UC12 coil (with no resistor) and we got an original used module from eBay (which we believe to be defective... plus it's over 45years old) so we're looking into doing the upgrade to the LX301. (We didn't know of the module upgrade until after buying the old module. 🥴 Luckily we can still return it) The engine was just rebuilt 1500 miles ago, got new Weber carb, eliminated the emissions/smog stuff, new remanuf distributor (original design), and new plugs/wires. We drove about 1200 miles and camper started intermittently chugging. Then it got progressively worse. Then it started backfiring upon deceleration. So much so, the muffler blew open and eventually ignited the plastic sewer tank while on the highway. Luckily, a trucker saw the flames and brought us a fire extinguisher and water to get most of the fire put out before the fire dept arrived. Luckily, the camper sustained minimal damage and was towed to the local mechanic. Mechanic noticed the module and coil getting SUPER hot so he replaced the coil and we got the used ebay module. Still has same backfiring and stalling issues after driving 2-3 miles when the engine heats up. Mechanic also found a faulty ignition switch too. We're hopeful that with a new switch, and the module/coil upgrade (explained in your videos) will help get the problem fixed so we can get back on the road and back home to New Hampshire. 🤞

​@@The13thSword...and yes, we plan on using the quality parts from Standard that you recommended in the videos. There's an O'Reilly in town that has the Standard LX301 module, Standard RU-4 ballast resistor, ACDelco 10474610 heat sink, and Standard UC12 coil. At O'Reilly, all parts mentioned (except the heat sink), have a lifetime warranty. The local Walmart has (in stock) the "Corsair TM30 Performance PC Thermal Heat Paste" so we'll use that instead of the silicone paste that comes with the heat sink. Yes, Rockauto has better pricing, but we're trying to get back on the road asap so time is of the essence. 😊

@@dawneandjohn I would consider that to be the standard stock 4 speed manual that came with a lot of the campers. It should be either the Toyota W40 or W42, specs here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_W_transmission#W40 The 4th gear isn't overdrive, it's a straight 1 to 1 ratio. The W50 & W56 5 speed manual trans have the same gear ratios as the W40/W42, 1st thru 4th gear, but 5th gear is an actual overdrive gear at 0.853 to 1. Sorry to hear about the stranding. The UC12 coil will work for a while without the resistor, but not for too long. It's not designed to take full running battery voltage (13.8 volt average from alternator) without the resistor in place. If you still want to skip the resistor go with a UC15 coil. It's internally resisted so you wouldn't need an external resistor & you can power it direct from running battery voltage. It sounds to me that the UC12 is already starting to have problems from running on that full voltage without the resistor to protect it. I'm 80%+ sure that if you install a UC15 most or all of those symptoms will go away. If a new UC15 still gives the same issues, then it's the original used module. Thanks for the very extensive & complete info you provided. Well done. The near fresh rebuild on the engine; running fine when you left home, drove 1200 miles then problems arose, then got worse, super hot coil & module etc. All of this sounds like a failing ignition coil, and are (mostly) the exact symptoms I've dealt with in the past with this. When the coil starts overheating it develops higher internal resistance, either on Primary or Secondary, or both. This condition can fairly easily cause damage to the module. Most GM guys will tell you that when an ignition coil starts to go bad like this, it more often than not also takes out the HEI module, so they both have to be replaced, usually. The faulty ignition switch is just another added source of excess resistance. The ignition system isn't on a relay, so there is full battery voltage (12 volts+) going thru the ignition switch. Over time & use, the contacts inside can get worn, dirty, corroded, pitted, etc. & cause excess resistance. I was a good move to get that replaced. I see several other messages from you, which I will answer in turn.

@@dawneandjohn Completely understandable. IMO the CPU paste does a better job than the plain silicone paste. I only recommended Rock Auto because I assumed you to be working on the truck at home.

Your can find my email address on my channel's "about" page. I will look at any pictures and/or descriptions you'd wish the send.

@@The13thSword I looked for an about page and I can't find it. I went to you main page on RUclips and I don't see it there either.

@@mariannskears1733 Top of my channel page there is a short description with a "more" link. Click that & you'll get a pop-up box that shows a link saying "view email address".

First things first. I must say I am *very* impressed with your resourcefulness and determination in working with the functionality you had to hand. Very well done. Given that, once you dive into to trying to get this machine straightened out, I don't think you're going to have much trouble accomplishing it. It sounds to me like the machine is stuck in reverse, given that you say the reverse lever doesn't move, and that you hadn't used the machine in years. What is most likely the case there, is that the reverse mechanism, which is made of up multiple pivoting levers, are stuck in position, due to the old oil/lubrication being very dried out. When that happens, the old oil/lubrication can act like a stiff "gum" or glue, not allowing the parts to pivot or move, holding the mechanism in one position. The other possibility is that you are missing the return spring for the reverse linkage. You said that the reverse lever was not moving, but have you tried to move it? Is the reverse lever just "stuck" in the reverse (downwards) position? If it doesn't want to move at all from that reverse/downward position, then it's likely that's the reverse linkage is just "gummed up" with dried out oil, and a good cleaning of the reverse linkage with a solvent like WD-40 will get rid of that "gum" & free the linkage up so it can move. I think this is the most likely thing happening there. In my experience with older machine that have "sat around" for some years, this is the most common issue they have. And I agree with you, these old Kenmore are better than almost anything new out there at the moment. So I suggest that you get the machine opened up as in the video, grab some WD-40 and soak down that reverse linkage several times with some time between applications, then see if the lever will move some for you. My video is so long because it took me more than 15 "soaks" to finally get mine freed up & moving. Since then I just put a fresh drop of oil on all the moving pivots every year or two; no trouble since. I see you sent a second message which I will answer separately.

You're welcome, glad it helped.

Since you have fuel delivery from the fuel pump & spark and the engine fires if you manually put gas in the carb, it's likely either the carburetor or an additional fuel delivery problem. By saying "if I take the line off fuel is pumping" O assume you mean the line at the carb itself? And not some other fuel line connection further away from the carb? I ask this because sometimes of you disconnect the fuel line behind the fuel filter you'll see fuel pumping, but the fuel filter could be clogged, keeping fuel from getting to the carb. For the carb itself, if it hasn't been internally cleaned, rebuilt or replaced for a long time there could be several issues. Clogged up idle or main circuits (can happen if the vehicle has sat for a while), or worn out throttle rod bushings in the base allowing in too much air, or other worn out internal parts. A less likely issue would be the fuel pump relay. It doesn't happen often but occasionally the contacts in the relay on the "RUN" side get pitted or corroded & then the fuel pump won't get voltage on the "RUN" side, but will get voltage when the key is in the "Start" (cranking) position. This happens because over time, the "RUN contacts are used for a longer period of time in use than the START contacts. Same thing goes for the fuel pump resistor, as the resistor is only working when running, not during starting. Second less likely possibility is the ignition switch, for the same reasons stated above. If this car has sat for any long periods of time, I highly suggest that the entire fuel & electrical systems be completely gone through. I know from experience that in such cases, it's almost never just one part of a system that needs repair.

It's difficult to tell you where to start without more specific information, and especially on what was a 22RE (Electronic Fuel Injected version) converted to a "22R" (Carbureted version). I also don't know if the engine was "desmogged" or not (emission equipment either removed or blocked off) either completely or to what extent. Or what type and kind of intake & carb you are now running. 22R intake & carb from a similar year model or otherwise? Was the carb new or freshly rebuilt or just plain used when the conversion was done? Are you running a stock Toyota fuel pump or something else? If something else, what brand, part number & how & where is it mounted? What model year is the vehicle? How many miles put on since the conversion? Those are just the initial questions that I have that need *specific* answers before I could even start to point you in a specific targeted direction. It's never easy to diagnose run problem remotely without a ton of solid info, and even then it can be difficult. But if you can completely answer the above questions I will try to help you.

Okay this is going to be a lot. If there's a time we can talk on the phone or video chat I'm down to do that to make this easier on you. And if you can help with this I'd like to pay for it. So here we go. The motor I was told was a remanufactured crate motor when conversion was done. I don't know what the motors year of manufacture or remanufacture, and i have no way to verify that's true or not. The truck was desmogged as far as I can tell, and to make your life harder (I would think) it's a California model. Chassis is 1993. I was told the aisin carb on it was from a 70's model truck and it has an electronic choke. Im going to give you background on how I got the truck because it might be important. It belongs to my boss, and he was tired of paying his mechanic money for parts and labor and he told me that he wants the truck off of his property or he wants me to have it if I'm going to use it, which would over time make the investment worthwhile because I can be more effective having a truck, I normally ride a motorcycle so capabilities are limited. But he said if I can't use it, if it doesn't run or whatever, he wants it out of sight and mind. His mechanic was not happy when he found out the boss basically gave me the truck. All of the vehicles and equipment that the boss has are only, for the most part, operated by one person. That person is the same person who fixes vehicles or equipment that get broken. So the only person who runs everything is the only person who can break anything, and then he gets paid to keep things operational. (Fix what he breaks) Everything is rigged with kill switches too. So basically this guy extorts my boss and has the keys to all of his equipment and is the only one who knows how to use everything because of how he set it up. And my boss can't do anything because he needs him to run it all to get shit done. And who knows if anything will run ever again if he fires this guy. Well when I got the truck, mechanic man told me "when that gauge on there says it's on E, you got 1 or 2 miles before you run out of gas" -_- i would have never predicted that.... What a concept, I'll run out of gas when on E... Anyways, A day or 2 later, he hits the truck with a trailer he was moving with an excavator. Barely left a dent tho surprisingly, and I wouldn't have even noticed if he didn't make a point to tell me it happened and apologize to me. The next day, I ran out of gas. Despite my gauge reading half a tank. Someone brought me a gas can and it drove back to the yard without incident. The next day I filled it with fuel all the way, cleaned the top end of the carb and the float bowl which was filthy. I'm pretty sure that the carb was well used when the conversion took place btw. Definitely not rebuilt. Possible that it was cleaned up. I can't get any more information other than what I have because I think that Mr. Mechanic sabotaged the truck by telling me when the gauge reads E I'll run out of gas (no shit dude) and then overnight did something to make the gauges reading fixed, therefore I would run out of gas and it would have to be parked in the yard so he could do whatever he did to it to keep it from idling. I can't get any information about the conversion because I'd have to askthe mechanic. He may not have done anything to it I'm just entertaining the idea just in case. But regardless, he definitely isn't going to provide me any information about anything else with the truck. This is all the information I have. And I believe the fuel pump is stock. Possibly from the truck the carb was from.

@@calebclark7959 I don't mind handling this through YT messaging but if you prefer you can go via direct email with me. My email address is available on my channel's "about" page. I'd like to keep the discussion here as it could help out other with the same problems but if you'd rather email me directly that's ok. I don't mind trying to help out and I do not require pay for it. I will try to take your provided information in order for clarities sake. With the truck being a 1993 California model and that it's has a remanufactured "crate" engine installed that's carbureted, I'd likely suspect that the engine is a 1985 to 1995 22R base block, as engine cores in that date range are more plentiful. There are no differences in the block for '85 to '95 22R's & 22RE's, only the intake & fuel supply methods are different (carb vs EFI). IF you want to verify that it's an '85 to '95 block check this page: www.lceperformance.com/category-s/23265.htm Look at the picture at the bottom and the circled area. All '85 to '95 blocks will have this shape cast into the block at that location (driver's side above oil pan flange). It being a Cali model doesn't matter if it's been desmogged, it actually makes things simpler. I doubt that the carb is from a 70's model (20R, 1975-1980) as those has a coolant activated choke, not an electric choke. When Toyota came out with the 22R in 1981 they went to the electric choke. Interesting story about your boss & how you got the truck, but it was a good score for you at least. Getting a basically free pickup in any kind of decent shape rarely happens. Onwards... Jumping ahead a bit here. The fact that you can keep the truck running by giving it gas means that your fuel pump is working at least to some degree, so I don't think that's the problem. However, I don't think you have the truck's original fuel pump, as there are big differences between the original EFI fuel pump & the carb-style/type fuel pump. The EFI pump is a in-the-gas-tank location/type & puts out about between 20 to 60PSI in fuel pressure. That much fuel pressure would overwhelm the needle & seat valve in a 22R carb & cause massive fuel flooding. A fuel pump compatible to the 22R carb only puts out about 4 to 6PSI fuel pressure. It is a mechanical type (not electric) driven by an eccentric ring on the camshaft, & is usually mounted on the front passenger side of the cylinder head. If you don't have the mechanical fuel pump on the head, it is possible that mechanic used an earlier electric in-tank fuel pump intended for a 20R. You'll have to look & tell me what you actually have there. Just covering the possibilities here, giving the background you explained to me. For reference, if you have the mechanical fuel pump, it will look like this: www.yotatech.com/forums/f115/help-mechanical-fuel-pump-109852/ Plenty of pics on that post so be sure to scroll down & have a good look. If you don't have the mechanical fuel pump there should be a block-off plate installed, & it will look like this (second picture): www.yotatech.com/forums/f115/help-mechanical-fuel-pump-109852/ In that case, that mechanic guy has done some weirdness & either has that earlier model in-tank electric pump feeding the carb, or some other arrangement (aftermarket and/or electric in-line pump). You said "The next day, I ran out of gas. Despite my gauge reading half a tank. Someone brought me a gas can and it drove back to the yard without incident. The next day I filled it with fuel all the way, cleaned the top end of the carb and the float bowl which was filthy." That combined with some other info you provided that leads me to believe that this truck had been sitting for a while, gives me a fairly good idea of what the problem might be. Running an older vehicle that's been sitting out of gas will often cause this problem. And that is debris, dirt or some other substance has gotten past the fuel strainer (filter) in the gas tank (if it even has one or may have dislodged from the fuel pickup tube), & picked up "trash" from inside the tank. The fact that you said the float bowl was filthy could indicate this. Debris, dirt, rust particles or other "trash" in the fuel system can very easily clog up the idle circuits in the carb. That means the engine won't idle normally because there is little to no fuel coming through the idle circuit, so the engine has to try to run on the main circuit instead. Your having to "stay on the gas" is exactly that, making up for the lack of fuel from the idle circuit. Same issue but related - If this truck has been sitting for some amount of time and has original type rubber fuel lines on it, AND anytime in the last 10 years or so, "modern" Ethanol enhanced gas has been put in the tank, that's a big issue. The Ethanol will do 3 things to older vehicles. 1. Ethanol can & will attract atmospheric water vapor (humidity) & could cause rust inside the tank, which isn't very good for the fuel system. 2. Ethanol can act like a cleaning agent, loosening years or decades old deposits in the tank, fuel line, etc., and then that dissolved "trash" goes to the carb & clogs it up, as described. 3. BIG problem - Old style rubber fuel lines that were not formulated to handle Ethanol-laced fuels will start to break down internally & shed rubber particles into the fuel, again causing the carb idle passages to clog up. Lastly, if the fuel filter located in the engine compartment hasn't been replaced for a while, you should get a new one in there. It should look like this: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5030175&cc=1277782&pt=6200&jsn=1127 Solutions - 1. Completely drain & remove the gas tank so you can thoroughly clean it out & get a new fuel strainer installed. Sidebar - While you have the tank out you might want to consider replacing the fuel sending unit so that the gas gauge is more accurate. You can get workable Chinese-made units on Ebay or Amazon for about $20 + ship, or OEM Toyota ones for about $70-$90. 2. Replace ALL rubber fuel lines with new modern ones designed to handle Ethanol-laced fuels, and replace any hose clamps that need it. 3. Disconnect & remove the Idle Cut-Off Solenoid from the carb. Shoot carb cleaner spray in the hole where the solenoid was to try to clean out the idle passage. This could take several applications It's also very recommended that you hit that hole with some compressed air after using the cleaner. Let it dry for several minutes then reinstall the solenoid & reconnect the plug to it. 4. Check & replace any vacuum hoses that are broken, torn, cracked or stiff with age. Since the engine is desmogged you should only have to worry about the PCV hose, brake vacuum booster hose, and the vacuum advance hose to the distributor. Make sure any unused vacuum ports on the carb are plugged with quality rubber vacuum caps (don't use the cheaper plastic ones, they don't last). There's a pretty good start for you. I highly advise you doo all that is outlined above. I've learned from experience that it never pays to short-cut anything when it comes to older vehicles, especially ones that might have sat for a while. Just take your time & be complete about things. If anything is unclear or you have other questions I'll be monitoring.

It's a lazer block. Like you said. The truck has both fuel pumps on it. The fuel cut off solenoid, is that the one that's on the top of the carb passenger side or is it the one at the rear of the carb? I think the one at the rear is the electric choke right? Also, there is a large diameter line that comes from that electronic component on passenger side that I believe is the cut off solenoid. It is not connected to anything. You may be right about the truck sitting, but the truck ran great for a week. A day before I ran out of gas at half tank, the mechanic told me I would run out of fuel when the gauge says empty. Why would he tell me something so obvious. What would make sense to me is that he told me that because he turned off the fuel sender so that I would inevitably run out of gas, thinking I'm half full remembering he said it will run out right at E. Let me know if I missed any information you needed, I'm going to proceed with your solution procedures and respond with the results once I complete that

@@calebclark7959 The fuel cutoff solenoid is a metal cylindrical shaped part with one or two wires coming out of it, and is located on the carb on the passenger side nearer to the top of the carb and a bit to the rear. Have a look at this picture: nationalcarburetors.com/Toyota-Hi-Lux-204-22R-1983-21892367-CC-AT-22R_p_559.html#mz-expanded-view-1050672389106 Picture view is from the passenger side of the carb, & the fuel cutoff solenoid is directly above the red colored screw (low idle set screw). You are correct, the larger item at the rear of the carb is the electric choke unit. Shown in picture with the red wire running to it. *NOTE: Both the electric choke & the fuel cutoff solenoid are usually wired to the "hot" side of the ignition, so that they operate when the key is in the RUN position. Just wanted to note that here but since the truck was running OK before the "out of gas" issue I wouldn't suspect any wiring issue with those pieces. I'm not too sure what you mean by "there is a large diameter line that comes from that electronic component on passenger side that I believe is the cut off solenoid." The 22R carb fuel cutoff solenoids usually have 2 wires on them but no vacuum lines at all. It's anybody's guess why that guy told you anything but you'd do well to just deal with what is in front of you that you can actually see. I've been doing this kind of thing for a while and have learned that you can rarely take at face value anything a previous owner or mechanic that worked on the vehicle tells you. It's just better to look for yourself & see exactly what's going on & do what needs doing. If he disconnected the fuel sender then the gas gauge would read dead empty. It's more likely that the sender is stuck in the half-full position, but you can verify or dispel this by looking at it when you clean out the gas tank. The sender may be worn out, broken, corroded, the wrong one, who knows? But getting a good look at it will tell you plenty. I look forward to hearing what you find.

Sounds like you've been doing a lot of good work. I am also missing the spring "C-Clip" for my driver's side wiper, and I have not been able to find that part available new on it's own anywhere. I assume this is due to the presumption that if the clip or spring "ages-out" or breaks, you probably would be better of to replace the entire wiper arm with a new one, as everything else on the arm would be equally worn or fatigued. Of course, I've also not been able to find new wiper arms for the '78 & earlier U.S. market pickups, only ones for right hand drive models outside the U.S., & those won't work on a left hand drive model (more on this below). So, there are several possible fixes, from cheapest to expensive. In my case, I fabricated a new c-clip out of 14 gauge copper house wire & this works, but using a similar gauge of steel wire would likely be more durable. Another possibility are wiper arms from a later (newer) model pickup or other Toyota model. As long as the arm length is the same & the spline count & diameters in the "cup" connector end is the same they could work. I've looked at new aftermarket wiper arms for the 84-88 models and they look very much the same. No guarantees on this as I haven't tried test fitting these myself to see if they will work. Possible modification to right hand drive wiper arms - You can get these for about $45 a pair new on Ebay from Thailand. Ebay search reference: "Toyota RN25 wiper arm". It might be possible to modify these for U.S. left hand drive model use but again, I've never tried it. You could also get those for the new parts in them to fix your old arms. Door weather seals are available both on Ebay and Rock Auto. Example: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1978,pickup,2.2l+l4,1277108,body+&+lamp+assembly,door+seal+/+weatherstrip,1430 I got mine a while ago from Rock Auto and they work well. If I can help with any other info or ideas just ask.

There are still a fair amount of parts available, and this compressor is a fairly simple model. I got the switch from Jack's Small Engine Parts, who I have been dealing with for years for mower parts. They do a good job. Here's a link to what they have for Campbell-Hausfeld compressors: www.jackssmallengines.com/manufacturer/campbell-hausfeld/air-compressor-parts You can also search there site with your compressor model number for model specific parts. Other than that I have seen parts available for this particular series of compressor available on Ebay. I don't know about Amazon because I don't buy from them.

I have not noticed any differences in starting time or fuel consumption. In fact my miles-per-gallon is exactly the same as it was before with the Toyota Igniter ignition module. I would suspect that your carburetor could do with a little cleaning and tuning, if those things haven't been done for some time. Sticking linkages, cables, and/or idle mixture set incorrectly can cause intermittent starting delays/problems. For exterior cleaning you do not have to remove the carburetor from the engine. Use carburetor spray cleaner on all of the exterior moving parts (linkages) to remove any substances that may be making the linkages stick & not able to move freely. You may want to put some cardboard or paper around the base of the carb before spraying to catch any "junk" & keep it off your your engine. Once the carb cleaner has completely dried, it's a good idea to lubricate all of the moving points on the linkages with a light machine oil, mineral oil or ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid). Don't over-do this, just use enough lubricant to lubricate a moving point or pivot point, or any moving parts that contact each other. Chain & Cable Lube also works well for this (see next paragraph.) It is also possible that your throttle cable is sticking sometimes due to lack of lubrication or wear. It is 29 years old. To lubricate it you'll need a cable lubricator tool. More info here: ruclips.net/video/aQnMdOL09uY/видео.html DO NOT USE WD-40 as cable lube. The solvents in it can melt the plastic sheathing of the cable. I recommend PB Blaster Chain & Cable spray lube. Next you will want to adjust the idle mixture screw. This is done with the engine fully warmed up to operating temperature and with the choke fully open, and with the engine running at low idle speed (750 RPM for Manual Transmission, 850 RPM for Automatic Transmission). The idle mixture screw may or may not have a plastic cap or plug over it; if yours has the plastic cap/plug it needs to be removed to access the idle mixture screw. The Idle Mixture Screw is located at the middle base of the carb on the right side of the vehicle. Picture of screw location(s) here: www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/carb-adjustment-48857/#&gid=1&pid=1 If the engine is already running fairly smoothly, slowly turn the screw to the left until the engine just starts to run a little roughly, then turn the screw slowly back to the right until the engine runs it's smoothest. This should take 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn. If the engine already runs a little rough (or more), you will have to try turning the screw in each direction & listen to how the engine runs and responds, until you find the correct setting where the engine runs it's smoothest. After doing this adjustment you may have to adjust the warm idle speed screw (see picture) to get the correct warm idle speed. It would also be a good idea to check for vacuum leaks in any hoses going to the carb, & to check that your engine timing is set correctly. 5 degrees BTDC (before top dead center). I hope this helps. If you have any other questions just ask.

You need to get the cover off behind the wheel to get access to the set screw that holds the reverse switch onto it's lever, or to get better access for cleaning & oiling. Please reference the video @13:48 onwards to 14:04 for a brief explanation. Also, check out this link to a diagram: www.searspartsdirect.com/model/tpofox2kkq-000582/kenmore-15817560-home-parts As you can see, in this diagram there are 4 screws that hold the end cover, what I think you're calling the "side cover". Just to be clear, what I am referring to here is the cover that is behind the hand wheel. Some model 158's will only have the top 2 screws plus a spring clip on the bottom; you'll have to look in the bottom of your machine to see which version you have. If you have the two screws/spring clip version check out this page for instructions: pungolivinghome.com/2019/11/21/removing-the-balance-wheel-on-a-kenmore-158-series-sewing-machine/ Everything below is for the "4 screws" version. The screws are marked in the diagram as #9 (top) & #12 (bottom). All 4 have to come out to get that cover off the machine. The Top Cover is removed first as shown in the video. Then the Hand Wheel has to come off & there are a few small tricks to it. Make sure that when you remove the following parts you put them in a safe place and that you lay them out in the way (position) they are installed. I will explain why in a bit but everything I describe here will make reassembly easier and help make sure the Hand Wheel tension is set correctly. You'll see a set screw in the center metal (usually chrome) part of the hand wheel; remove that screw. Put a small piece of scotch tape or similar on the plastic part only of the Hand Wheel so that one edge of the tape lines up with the screw hole in the center part. The piece of tape will act as a positioning marker later during reassembly. Next you hold the plastic part of the Hand Wheel with one hand and use your other hand to turn the metal part of the hand wheel to the left to start to remove it. It would be wise here to use that tape marker & the empty screw hole to count the number of full turns it takes until the metal part comes completely out of the metal part, then write down the turn count. This will help you get the Hand Wheel tension right during reassembly. Once the metal part is out of the way, remove the belt from the Hand Wheel & then you should be able to pull the plastic part of the Hand Wheel straight off the shaft. If not it may be stuck to the shaft. A lot of WD40 & soaking (sometimes multiples of this usually gets it loose enough to be pulled off. Once the Hand Wheel is out, you need to remove the 4 screws holding the side cover onto the machine. You should then have good access to the Reverse Lever set screw. Once you're done working inside the machine, reassembly is just a reverse process, putting everything back together in the reverse order that you removed it. Special note on Hand Wheel - When putting this back together, you can use your notes & tape marker to rest the tension on the wheel. The "washer" with the tabs on it has to go in a certain way, with the tabs pointing outward & lined up in the slots for them on the end of the shaft. More detailed info on this plus pictures here: pungolivinghome.com/2019/11/21/removing-the-balance-wheel-on-a-kenmore-158-series-sewing-machine/ I hope this helps. I've provided as much detail as possible in hopes that this goes smoothly for you.

I do not recommend it. The 22RE distributor doesn't have the vacuum advance diaphragm like the 22R version does. On the 22RE all ignition timing advance is handled by the Engine Control Module (ECM) computer. On the 20R & 22R ignition timing advance is mechanically handled by the weights in the distributor and the vacuum advance diaphragm, operated by a vacuum signal from the carburetor. If you're doing this conversion on a 20R or 22R it's best to use a 20R or 22R distributor, as either one will give you the ignition vacuum advance you need. NOTE: If using a 22R distributor, those have a double vacuum diaphragm setup, one for advance & one to retard the timing. The advance diaphragm is the outer-most one & that's the one that should get the vacuum signal from the carb. The inner diaphragm isn't used. Any other questions just ask.

Sorry I don't have it, but give Yoda Jim's a try. I got a correct used replacement sender from them. yodajims.com/ Calling them is best during their business hours, M-F 9am - 5pm Sat 9am - 3pm. They've always done alright by me.

It's not a matter of a stronger spark but a more reliably consistent spark over the older contact points setup that was used before electronic ignition systems were created. Either the Toyota Electronic Ignition "Igniter" or the HEI module will be more consistent that a points system as it is electronically switched instead of mechanically switched. Plus mechanical contact points can wear or get pitted from arcing over time & cause weak or missed spark. The initial reasons for this conversion is that the original Toyota Igniter module stopped functioning, and that replacement Toyota Ignitors for the 20R are either very hard to find (even working used ones), and even if you could find a new one they are expensive. Last new one I saw was 5 years ago & they wanted $600 for it. The 4 pin HEI module like the LX301 is $25-$30, is widely available, & functions the same basic way the original Toyota unit did. The module is basically a switch that turns the power on & off to the Ignition Coil. How "strong" the spark is, is dependent on how the ignition coil was designed & made and the condition of the rest of your system, such as spark plugs, rotor, cap, wires & even how well your engine is grounded. As long as all this is in good condition there shouldn't be any need for a "hotter" or "performance" ignition coil. Most stock ignition coils will put out on average 40,000 volts, which is plenty for a street-driven vehicle. NOTE/TIP: If you are considering doing this conversion, don't "cheap out" on the ignition coil. I know from experience that they aren't worth using & don't last. Get a good quality brand like SMP/Standard, NGK or WVE/Wells. NAPA/Echlin is the same as SMP/Standard just with the NAPA name on it & usually at a higher price. Hope this answers your question. If you have any other questions about this conversion just ask.

In your particular conditions as described, I'd be looking at the timing first as it ,ay have been set for "high altitude*", meaning it may be too far advanced for lower altitude driving conditions, and this should be set first before trying to change the idle mixture screw setting. Base engine timing & idle mixture are interrelated but the base engine timing should always be set first. * By "high altitude" this usually means operation at 5000 feet in elevation or higher. Most road vehicles with carburetors don't need timing or carb adjustments for anything below 5000 feet. More on this below. Unless you know precisely what a previous owner did to engine timing settings or carb settings for "high elevation" you're basically guessing, so it's best to "baseline" the settings & go from there. To explain further about why I'd look at the timing first. In general for high elevation running (rule of thumb) the timing needs to have a more advanced base timing than that at sea level, usually on the order of 1/2 to 1 degree of advance for every 1000 feet above sea level. This is because air pressure higher up is less (less dense air), therefore you get less oxygen. You'd also need to adjust the fuel delivery. Why? Because the ideal air/fuel ratio for complete & efficient combustion of gasoline is 14.7 to 1, air to fuel (also known as stoichiometric air fuel ratio). Less oxygen, less fuel to maintain as close as possible that 14.7/1 ratio. So your comment about the system possibly being too rich may be on the money here, and it might only take an engine timing adjustment to make that "run on" stop happening. Like I said before, "high altitude" adjustments really isn't necessary for a street driven, carburetor equipped vehicle operated at 5000 feet in elevation or less, but you never know what strangeness people will to to a vehicle, IF they think it's just got to be done. So it would be best to get those "baseline" settings first by finding out exactly where the engine time is & then adjust the carb accordingly. I understand your stance about "leaving it to a pro" about engine timing, however these days it can be difficult to near impossible to find a tech that even knows what a timing light is, much less how to use one, since most vehicle's engine timing has been on-board computer controlled since the 90's. It's really not that difficult to do & you shouldn't have to worry too much about "messing things up" as long as you work with care and really take your time making small adjustments. As for a timing light, you can get a basic one from any local Harbor Freight or online for about $30. Example: www.harborfreight.com/timing-light-with-advance-40963.html There are also plenty of videos on YT that can teach you how to use a timing light to set base engine timing. As far as water in the cab, yes I've had to deal with that & am currently dealing with that, due to my wiper system breaking on me. In trying to fix the wiper system, which is mounted inside the cowl area, I found that there are some rust holes in the outer cowl metal, that is allowing rain water inside the cowl. There are supposed to be tubes inside the cowl that allow rainwater to drain out of the inner cowl space, but I'm assuming that those are clogged & not allowing drainage, & I can't get to them without removing the fenders. Over time that standing water inside the cowl has caused some rust holes through the bottom side cowl metal so that the water now leaks into the cab. My solution for this might sound odd to some but it's what I have to do. I have two plexiglass panels that I am going to put over the two vents areas in the upper cowl to close/seal them off. I have located all of the rust holes in the outer cowl metal and those are going to get wire-brushed to remove surface rust & then sealed with clear silicone caulking. If I have any leaks after that then the only possible leak area is going to be the windshield gasket, which I will replace if necessary. I would urge you to attend to the problem sooner rather than later. A previous owner of my truck did a half-butt job of trying to seal it up (using roofing tar!) and apparently it leaked onto the floors for a long time. I have rust holes in my floor on both sides & those are going to take a lot of effort & time to fix properly. So it would be best to fix the leaks before that happens to you.

@@The13thSword Thank you very much for the information. Unfortunately the leak problem I've had has already caused some pretty severe rust issues on my cab floor. I don't have any covered area to park it so it gets left to the elements!

@@davidflatcutf3286 Sorry to hear about that. Only short term suggestion I'd have is a tarp over the cab area & some weights to hold it in place so it doesn't get even worse. If you've got any plans to fix the floor there is some good news. It used to be that you couldn't get preformed replacement floor panels for these trucks, but now they have become available though several sellers on Ebay out of Thailand. Just search on Ebay for "Toyota RN25 Floor Panel" and you'll see them. Prices are fairly reasonable.

Jim's Used Toyota Truck Parts - (303) 506-5119. yodajims.com/ Let me know if I can help with anything else.

Thank you. It could also possibly be done on any 22R carbureted engine up to the 1995 model year, as the same type of distributor was used until then.

@@The13thSword thanks my friend

Yes I've had that happen. Fortunately the Dashpot itself was OK & it just required a fair amount of tinkering with the adjustment screw to get it just right, because I didn't have the manual spec for it, but I do now. Here it is straight from the service manual: "With the throttle released, the clearance between the edge of the primary throttle valve plate and the venturi bore should be: Manual Gearbox - 0.024" or 0.6mm Automatic Transmission - 0.020" or 0.5mm" Please note that this adjustment is done with the carburetor completely removed from the intake. The "throttle valve plate" stated above means the "butterfly plate" at the bottom in the base of the carb, so you can't measure it with the carb installed. Adjusting the Dashpot with the carb installed is less direct & a little tricky but not impossible. Engine has to be up to full operating temp & at normal low idle (Manual 800 RPM, Auto Trans 850 RPM). I start by backing off the adjusting screw until it just loses contact with the throttle arm, then running it back in until it makes the slightest contact with the arm (look for very slight arm movement from this), then backing the screw out an eighth (1/8) of a turn. Then rev the engine a bit, completely let go of the throttle linkage & let the linkage settle back down to idle, while watching the dashpot & listening to the engine. What you want to see & hear is the dashpot adjusting screw contact the arm just before it "bottoms out" at normal idle position & idle engine speed. It's a very small portion of the arm travel & when set correctly. The time element (duration of the "catch & settle") is very short, guessing like a half second or less. You might have to do this repeatedly to get it just right. It takes very small adjustments to the screw once you get it close. Once you do get it set to what appears to be correct, check that your normal low idle speed is correct as stated above. The Idle Adjustment Screw and the Dashpot adjusting screw are inter-related, as both can contact the throttle arm & both effect engine speeds. So you may have to go back & forth between the two screws until you get the right balance of functions. Hope this makes sense. Let me know if you need clarifications or have any other questions.

@@The13thSword THANK YOU for this very detailed response. Spent some time on it today and got it to run properly without having the throttle hold itself open while I was driving. Got a brand new carb recently and looks like the throttle position screw was all the way in, which somehow was causing it to hold it open. Really appreciate the wealth of 20R knowledge you're sharing with everyone

You're welcome & I'm glad it helped. Sometimes at the factory or the rebuilders shop, they don't always set everything correctly, so I've learned that it always pays to go through all the adjustment settings before you install the carb. If anything else comes up that you might need some info or an opinion on just let me know. Thanks for letting me know it helped & for the like & view.

Glad to be of help. Just passing along the info & knowledge I've gained to help others out. BTW & I don't recall if I mentioned it in this update video, but you can run this without the ballast resistor, IF you use a Standard Motor Products UC 15 Ignition Coil instead of the UC12. The UC15 is internally resisted so it doesn't need the external ballast resistor, where the UC12 isn't internally resisted, so it needs the external ballast resistor. Just wanted to get that info posted here for others to see.

I already answered your direct email on this but will also answer here. The Cardone 31721 is correct. Not sure what's going on with that unit having a brown and a tan wire, but there is a way to figure out which one is supposed to be the "red" wire and which one is the "white" wire. Take the cap and rotor off the distributor if you haven't already done so. Look inside the top of the distributor and locate the pickup coil that has the two wires coming out of it. It will look like this: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=28291&cc=1275982&pt=7108&jsn=9 Notice that the two wires are "stacked", top and bottom. The bottom wire will always be the "red" wire & the top wire will always be the "white" wire. Just pick one wire and visually follow it to the plug end. Then you'll know which terminal in the plug is which. Also, you said in your email that you have a stock Igniter system in that '77 Rona. There should be a rectangular plug coming off that unit that should directly connect with that Cardone distributor. Those rectangular plugs can only be connected in one way, because of their design. So there shouldn't be any way to connect the two things out of phase or backwards. Have at look at your plugs & you should see what I mean. As long as that stock Igniter unit is from "78 to '80 they should fit. If the plug on the Igniter is round instead of rectangular, the Igniter unit is an '81 & newer unit. That can still work but you'd also need to obtain or fabricate a jumper wire with female spade lugs at each end to connect the two items together. I don't have a source for the stock Toyota plugs. As I said in my email, any specific questions just ask.

The valve hasn't leaked since I did this, as shown in the video (5 years ago). The "knob" part has a groove in it that the o-ring is supposed to seat in (shown @13:45) & that is the correct location for the o-ring for this particular model of shutoff valve. Did you lubricate the o-ring (also as shown in the video) before trying to insert the knob back into the valve body? If you try to refit the knob "dry" (unlubricated), the o-ring is very likely to roll out of it's groove, & the valve will leak. I prefer to use a light oil like mineral oil (3-on-1 Oil). Auto Trans Fluid works, or a very light coat of clean motor oil or petroleum jelly. It doesn't take much. Whatever "lube" you use as long as it's petroleum based like any of the above, it won't hurt the o-ring & help you get that knob piece back in without the o-ring rolling out of place.

The two main things that could cause this are: 1. Lean Fuel Condition. This usually* means that the fuel to air ratio does not have enough fuel in it & burns hotter than a "correct" air to fuel ratio. *Lean conditions can be either fuel delivery related or otherwise. See #2 below for the "otherwise". To verify an overall lean condition, wait until the engine is completely cool & remove the spark plugs & keep them in order so you know which one was in which cylinder. Inspect the electrodes & insulators of the spark plugs. Normal condition - electrodes & insulators will appear intact with no damage & they will have a light tan to light gray appearance. Lean Condition - Electrodes may or may not appear damaged (sharp edges worn away, pitted, possibly even look melted in places), insulators may be cracked, worn or even have pieces missing. Color on electrodes & insulators will be white & possibly also have a "sooty" or "ash-like deposits on them. That's a sure sign of a lean condition. The first usual suspect is the carburetor. You say the vacuum lines all check out (no vacuum leaks) but the carb itself could be the source of a vacuum leak, if it's older & possibly worn. There are bushings in the base of the carb for the lower throttle plate rod that can wear out & admit extra air to be drawn in at the base of the carb, causing a lean condition (too much air, not enough fuel). There might also be air leaks from damaged gaskets. The carb could also have partially blocked jets or passages due to debris in the carb, not allowing the correct metering or flow of fuel. 2. Lean Condition due to incorrect engine timing. Either the initial engine timing is set too advanced, or the distributor advance is providing too much ignition advance, or both. In the case of too much ignition advance the carb may actually be OK & it's giving the correct air/fuel ratio. However, because of too much ignition advance, the engine isn't able to burn all of the fuel, causing a lean condition. Possible Issues: Initial engine timing set too advanced. The spec for the 20R is 8 degrees before top dead center at full hot idle. If you haven't messed with this timing or you know you previously set it correctly, or checked it previously with a timing light, you can skip this one. Since the engine starts well I wouldn't worry about it too much. Distributor Problems - Advance mechanism possibly stuck in advanced position. Advance weights stuck in advanced position. Both of these can usually be solved with some careful cleaning & lubrication, using a light oil on the mechanism & it's moving points, like ATF (auto trans fluid) or a mineral oil like 3-in-1 oil or similar. WD-40 not recommended as it doesn't last. Weak, broken or missing Advance Weight Springs causing advance weights to move too far out, giving too much ignition advance. Possibly worn out distributor; especially true if it's original. Replace with a quality rebuilt unit if found to be worn out. Less likely but possible - Distributor Vacuum Advance Diaphragm hooked up to a non-ported* vacuum source. That would give the advance mechanism constant vacuum & it would be chronically fully advanced. * Non-ported vacuum is constant engine vacuum, ported vacuum is vacuum that varies by engine speed. The vacuum advance diaphragm needs ported vacuum to operate correctly. The correct vacuum port for the distributor vacuum advance diaphragm is on the passenger side of the carb, below the Idle Mixture Screw, & points towards the front of the vehicle. That's about all I can think of. Let me know what you find and/or any updates. Any other questions just ask.

@The13thSword Thank you for the brief explanations, Sir. All you mentioned was detail done, even a new rebult carburetor installed, but the problem was not solved. After all these exams,cylinder head detached. The findings were interesting. 1/ one of the cylinder head water supply hole, and the matching engine block water intake hole found chipped size of pin hole,; and this causes coolant drainage toward the combustion chamber,this causes mixture gas and coolant. 2/ cylinder #1 top piston ring found broken. 3/ For detailed instructions, all pistons were removed without removing the crank shaft, oil pan removed (pain in ass). and unbolting connecting rods from the bottom. 4/ cylinder #2, the liner/ sleeve found straight line cracked. The remaining three cylinders were found in good shape. When the # 3 piston pulled out, the piston rings were found socked with coolant water,and it sprinkled all over the engine bay. The remaining cylinder block sleeves are found in good shape. 5/ Now in the process, trying to install liners without taking apart the engine. The aluminum Cylinder head chiped coolant supply hole welded and resurfaced lightly. The engine block chipped hole, not yet. The coolant intake hole is very close to the combustion chamber. It needs good repair. So, the findings conclusions about red hot pipe were gas escape from combustion chamber and mixed with coolant, and un burned gas exits through the exhaust manifold to the pipe. When the radiator pressurized, it created coolant mist through the liner crack wall, which means another contribution to gas and coolant mixing problems. I dont even understand how the car was starting from all these cancers. Now, pulling out liners without any damage became another pain. Any thoughts abouttha, let me know. Again, thank you for your response.

@@dawitkassa3131 The following may not be the answer you expected to hear, but I have to be completely honest with you, to help save you much work and possible frustration. Unless you are a machinist by trade (job) and work in an auto machine shop equipped with all of the specialized tools and machines, I do not recommend that you attempt to replace the cylinder liners yourself. Reasons: 1. The cylinder liners are a VERY tight press-fit (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interference_fit) that requires specialized tools and machinery (usually a hydraulic press) to do correctly and without damage to either the new liners or the engine block. 2. Trying to do this job with hand tools and with the engine still in the vehicle is going to be very difficult if not impossible to do correctly without possible further damage. Also, given the types and amount of damage you have (as you said, "all these cancers"), if it were my engine, I'd want to do a complete rebuild on it. That would include removing the engine from the vehicle and at least sending the engine block to an auto machine shop, so they can thoroughly clean it*, test it for block cracks, and have them remove the old cylinder liners and install the new ones. They can also fix the "chipped hole" in the block. The block is cast iron which is not easy to weld correctly without the correct equipment & experience. *Such a shop can "hot tank" the block, submerging it in heated solvents. This will remove any/all oil,/grease, dirt, deposits, etc. Even more important it will dissolve any built-up deposits, blockages or clogs in the block's coolant passages. Based on my skill level and experience, I could handle everything else myself (disassembly, cleaning, measuring/checking parts for wear & replacing if needed). I know this sounds like a lot of work, (it is) and a pain in the ass (it is), but it's the best way to get the job done correctly with a minimum of problems. Plus a full rebuild like this will basically give you a like-new engine that you will likely never have to worry about again as long as you own it. That would be the benefit of this amount of effort & work. Given the damages you have described, I'd be worried that some or many other parts could have problems or just be worn out & in need of replacing too. Particularly things like crankshaft journal bearings, connecting rod bearings, damaged pistons, etc. Having coolant in areas of the engine block that were only meant to have oil is a big problem, and can damage parts easily, as you have found. So, as long as the block doesn't have any cracks in it because of the coolant issues, and any minor things can be welded/repaired, I'd rebuild it. If the block isn't rebuildable then I'd have to consider finding another 20R to build, or maybe a good condition running/used 22R engine to install in the vehicle. It would be a straight "drop-in" as the 22R is basically the same block as the 20R, it will bolt up to the existing transmission & it has the same motor mounts as the 20R. The choices are up to you.

@The13thSword Sir, again,I am very thankful for the explanations and suggestions you gave me. Yes, engine removal and machine shop work would be my only chance. The car has only 24,000 miles on it, interior,body all rock solid. It's going to be expensive repair. I tried to find 20R or 22R locally, but I couldn't find one.Even though I found one, it's hard to tell the condition of the engine. As you suggested, I will take it to a professional machine shop to get the job done right. Thank you so much. !!!

@@dawitkassa3131 You are most welcome and I'm glad to be of some help. If the vehicle in fact has only 24,000 miles on it, and that engine is original to the vehicle, then that's a good sign for you. The engine only has 24,000 miles of "stress" on it, so it's much more likely that it is in better than fair structural condition, overall. If it had been sitting for quite some time instead of being used/driven, I could see how some corrosion in the cooling system lead to that "hole" in the head & block, causing the "blown head gasket, and also causing the damaged you described. As long as it wasn't run excessively in that condition, I'd think you are in very good shape for a rebuild without any major issues. I certainly hope that is the case for you. Please keep me updated at your own convenience on any progress you have. I'd like to know what happens next. I will keep a good thought for you. 👍

Thank you for the compliment, just trying to help others out there with similar vehicles/engines. The "black box" on the fender wall is the Voltage Regulator. The "cylinder" isn't actually a cylinder. It's a rubber sleeve (original stock item) that covers & protects the connector for the Voltage Regulator. If your vehicle is still in it's original stock configuration, your '72 isn't going to have an igniter (electronic ignition module/unit), it's going to have contact points in the distributor. Toyota didn't start using the electronic ignition Igniter system until the start of the '78 model year. '77 & earlier models had the contact points system instead, so it would make sense that you can't find the Igniter, because it simply isn't there. I assume that you are possibly looking to convert your engine from the contact points system to an electronic system? You can do this but you're going to need the "newer" model of distributor from '78 to '80 (preferably) that has a pickup coil/signal generator in it. Here are two link to the different distributors. First one is the older contact points type (like you probably have) & the second is the newer pickup coil type for electronic ignition. Comparer the two & you will see the difference. Points type: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=28275&cc=1277041&pt=7108&jsn=934 Pickup Coil type: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=28295&cc=1277108&pt=7108&jsn=980 The two different distributors are interchangeable in the 20R, direct replacement with no mechanical mods required. The contact points style distributor will not trigger the Toyota Ignitor or the GM HEI Module, because the contact points are only a simple on/off switch for the Ignition Coil. The Igniter or HEI Module requires a low voltage A/C (alternating current) signal to trigger, which is why you need the type with the Pickup Coil. It operates as a signal generator & will work with either an original Toyota Ignitor or the GM HEI Module. As far as the lack of "green plugs" goes, I think that's just a model year group thing. Near as I can tell, at least for the North American market, they starting using the green plugs from 1975 onwards. The color of them doesn't matter. You should still have the two ignition power feed plugs same as mine, just a different color (possibly white?) but they operate the same. If you look for the "+" wire that is currently going to your Ignition Coil "+" terminal, that's the one you need. Just back-track from the coil's "+" terminal & you will likely find the correct plug to use for keyed ignition power. I hope this makes sense & answers your questions. If I can help with any other info or advice just ask. There are several key points to this conversion to make it work well and reliably, & I can provide you with that if you need it.

Thank you very much for the quick and detailed reply. If only all other RUclipsrs were this attentive and helpful. If I run into any other issues I will be sure to ask! Thanks again!

@@gusamaya2934 You're most welcome. I always try to be as complete as possible, because having to guess about certain factors to a problem only gets us into trouble. 🙂I am always monitoring my messages on RUclips, so I should be around for any questions that may come up about this conversion.

@@The13thSword I just saw your video when you dropped the gas tank. I did the same thing and I found that the plug on top of the fuel pump has two wires. Yellow/Red stripe and a Black/Red stripe. I’ve looked in the same manual that you have and can’t seem to find the second set of wires(Black/Red). Am I missing something?

@@gusamaya2934 I need you to be a bit more clear here, because I'm not sure what you mean by "the second set of wires(Black/Red)." There is no "second set of wires". There are only two wires that go to the gas tank & connect at the fuel pump & fuel sender flange. The Black/Red is the voltage feed to the fuel pump. The Yellow/Red is for the Fuel Gauge Sender (the sender in the tank is what operates your fuel gauge in the dash cluster). Have a look at this link: toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/6410-1975-electric-fuel-pump-wiring-diagram/ Scroll down three posts to a post that has pictures. Click on the 3rd picture. It shows the basic stock wiring for the fuel pump, fuel gauge sender, fuel pump relay & fuel pump resistor. Your '72 should be no different from this in basic function if equipped with the electric fuel pump setup. However, I cannot guarantee that your wire colors will be the same as mine on the '78. It is possible that there are/were wire color differences, but from everything I've seen & heard over the last 10 years or so, I'd suspect it's the same. Just trying to cover bases here. If you have the same electric fuel pump setup, I can't really imagine it would be any different. The '72 to '78 trucks are all the same vehicle. This applies to all Hilux/Pickups sold in North America, with some minor differences. If your truck is not a North American model, there are more differences. In any case, if you have the pair of wires at the gas tank that are Black/Red & Yellow/Red, that's all that should be there, there is no second set of wires.

Here's a link to my original write-up about this on Yotatech: www.yotatech.com/forums/f114/1975-1978-pickup-electric-fuel-pump-wiring-diagram-info-309287/ As long as you get a quality set of a Bosch-style 5 pin relay rated for 30-40 amps plus the socket/pigtail for it, and wire it as described below it will work just like the original relay. Relay terminal to Stock Wire Color 85 - YB - Yellow w/Black Stripe - Oil Pressure Switch 86 - WL - White w/Blue Stripe 30 - BR - Black w/Red Stripe - Fuel Pump 87A - BY - Black w/Yellow Stripe - "RUN" from Ignition Switch, Fuel Pump Resistor 87 - BW - Black w/White Stripe - "START" from Ignition Switch The wire color on the new socket pigtail doesn't matter; you just have to know which one goes to which pin on the relay, and then connect them up properly to the original relay socket in the vehicle. The actual Bosch part number for relay is 0986AH0602. Any other quality brand, 5 pin style of this type of relay is functionally identical. If you search Ebay for "5 pin bosch style relay and socket" you'll find one. BTW, the diagram on the relay itself doesn't have to be exact. I see that the 5 pin relays on Ebay show the coil on the left side and my video & pictures show it on the right side. As long as you get the pin number designations correct & hooked up to the wires as I specified, everything will work just fine. Let me know how it turns out or if you have any other questions.

That's entirely possible, depending on the age of the carb & when it was last rebuilt, if ever. It would also be more likely if you have completely gone through your ignition system & verified that all of it is functioning as it should be. A weak or malfunctioning ignition could be responsible for an incomplete burn of the fuel, which would also give you the "black smoke" symptom. How old are your spark plugs & how do they look?

That's fine but raises a question in my mind. Were you trying to use a points distributor to trigger the igniter system? That's not likely to work. The igniter system requires a distributor with a pickup coil in it (1978 to 1980 20R or 1981 or newer 22R distributors will work). The pickup coil is basically a signal/voltage generator that puts out about 3 volts AC, & the igniter uses that alternation current voltage as a trigger signal to turn the coil on & off. Contact points only acts as an on/off switch & do not generate any voltage on their own.

So you're saying you have the original stock Toyota "ignition & ballast resistor" setup? Is this the resistor you mentioned earlier, the one that had no continuity? If so, then that resistor is bad & acting like an open circuit, no power to ignition coil positive, so there would be no spark. Not sure what you mean by the resistor having 2 positives? If you mean that both terminals on the resistor are "battery voltage positive" then that's correct. Which makes me wonder a bit about your saying the resistor has "no continuity". How did you check this? If you were using a volt/ohm meter & had it set to "volts" you would see any reading at all, because you only have positive running through the resistor. You'd need to connect your black test lead to a ground point to see what voltage is there. Just for clarity here, continuity is checked using an "ohms" setting on the volt/ohm meter, or an actual continuity setting if the meter has one. Can you be more specific on what you mean by "no continuity"? How did you check for this? Please describe.

I see that you've sent several different messages, so I will try to take them separately & in order. If you want help I'm going to need some more specific info. What "transistorized ignition" do you mean here? The original Toyota "igniter & ballast resistor" setup or does the truck have a GM HEI ignition module conversion that a previous owner did? This isn't clear. I need to know exactly what you have there. The temporary key switch underhood for certain types of testing purposes is OK, but you need to understand that one of those usually *only* acts as a remote starter switch for the starter motor. The ignition circuit itself is separate from that. Also, your truck should have a stock electric fuel pump in the gas tank. That pump has it's own dedicated circuit with a relay & a resistor, and is run & activated in different ways through the ignition circuit & the oil sender switch. I say all this because I know that using a remote starter switch & also having the truck's own ignition switch turned on to "RUN", the fuel pump will not activate & send gas to the carb, because you've bypassed the "START" side of the fuel pump circuit with that temporary key switch. I do have a video up about a replacement fuel pump relay that explains it a bit further, but if you need a complete explanation of how it all works together & why just ask. You can find my email address on my "ABOUT" page on my RUclips channel page. You said "I don't get any continuity on the resistor." What part are you referring to here? The ballast resistor? The fuel pump resistor? Something else? Please describe the part's appearance, location & any marking(s) it may have, & what other part(s) it may be connected to. I will look at & respond to your other messages next.

Try yodajims.com/

Thanks for the view & comment. Glad to be of help.

You're welcome.

You're most welcome. 9 times out of 10 throttle/run issues on bikes are this issue, so it will most likely work.

That well could be. When you're "bench testing" this system on the dining room table, are you also grounding the spark plugs? They usually ground to battery negative through the cylinder head via the engine block, motor mount, frame, and battery negative ground cable. But with bench testing, you have to supply a ground for the spark plugs, as none of that side of the circuit is there. You'd also need a direct ground from battery negative to the grounding tab on the HEI module. A "high energy coil" really doesn't make that much difference in normal driving performance, and would just cost you extra $. If your old coil is testing out OK on the Ohm meter (in spec) it's likely not the issue. Correct spec for the '75 to '79 stock coil is 1.3 to 1.7 Ohms Primary, and 6500 to 10,500 Ohms Secondary. These are "cold" readings, meaning the coil hasn't been recently exposed to running conditions or had battery voltage applied to it for at least an hour. If the Secondary spec reads anything over 9400 Ohms the coil is weak & needs to be replaced. For the HEI conversion I highly recommend using the Standard Motor Parts coil UC15. It's internally resisted so it doesn't require an external ballast resistor**. Much simpler. If you have any questions about the above or anything else about this conversion just ask. And please let me know what happens if you do put this system in the truck. ** PS - The original stock '76 20R contact points distributor ignition system had a ballast resistor in the "+" side of the circuit. It was there to protect & lengthen the useful life of the contact points. Your original '76 coil will need to have the ballast resistor on the "+" side of the power feed to the coil, as the coil was designed to function that way. Eliminating the ballast resistor & running the stock coil on full battery voltage will "burn out" the stock coil in short order. If you've done your "bench testing" without the ballast resistor in circuit, it could have caused an issue with the coil's Secondary. Retest it with your Ohm meter to be sure. I've learned about this the hard way & have more info on that detail alone; just ask if you need/want to know more.